The Bilstein B6 24-223911 is a single rear monotube shock absorber for the Mercedes-Benz Sprinter 2500 Base with the V6 3.0L engine, sold for the 10-15 application. The monotube body is the main thing to compare against a basic twin-tube replacement, and it is the reason this shock suits drivers who want more controlled damping when the van is loaded with cargo, gear, or a camper build. Because it is one shock, most vans need two.
Published fitment varies from one source to another. Year ranges appear as 2010-2014, 2010-2018, and wider 2007-2018 Dodge, Freightliner, and Mercedes-Benz applications, so confirm your van's model year, chassis, and single versus dual rear wheel setup with the manufacturer before ordering. For installation, the rear is the easier end of the Sprinter's suspension. Owners who have written up their own rear shock swaps report that the work can be done without removing the wheels, although pulling the wheel makes the lower bolt easier to reach. Expect a moderately easy job that needs a floor jack, jack stands on the factory jack points, an 18mm and 21mm socket, and a torque wrench.
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This is a single shock absorber, so a rear axle needs two. Shocks are normally replaced in pairs so that both sides damp the same way.
Published fitment ranges differ, from 2010-2014 up to 2007-2018 across Dodge, Freightliner, and Mercedes-Benz Sprinter 2500 vans. Check your van's year and rear-wheel configuration against the manufacturer's fitment information before buying.
Torque values differ between published install guides, so do not rely on a single figure. Confirm the upper and lower bolt specifications with the manufacturer or a factory service manual before tightening.
Rear shock replacement is one of the more approachable suspension jobs on a Sprinter 2500. Work on level ground, chock the front wheels, and lift the rear on the factory jack points with the van supported on jack stands. Plan on roughly 45 minutes per side with basic hand tools. Tools typically needed are 18mm and 21mm sockets, a ratchet with extension, a torque wrench, and a jack to hold the axle while you line up the lower mount. Two common gotchas: the top nut often requires you to counter-hold the bolt, and the lower eyelet may need the axle lifted or compressed slightly before the bolt will line up. Owner guides also describe compressing the shock with a ratchet strap to align the top mount. Keep the factory hardware for reuse, and confirm torque values with the manufacturer before final tightening.
