The Bilstein B6 22-282736 is a front right suspension strut assembly for the 2010–2013 Toyota Highlander 2WD, built on Bilstein's B6 performance line. Bilstein presents the B6 as a bolt-on upgrade for factory suspension: a yellow monotube gas-pressure damper tuned firmer than OE that keeps working with your existing springs at original ride height. Its velocity-sensitive digressive piston adjusts damping to road input, which the manufacturer links to consistent, fade-free control during repeated hard use.
Worn factory struts let a tall crossover lean and wander through fast corners and broken pavement. This swap targets tighter body control without lowering the vehicle or changing spring rates. Bilstein says each B6 goes through long-term endurance, salt-spray, and scratch testing plus a functional check before shipping, and the B6 line is built in Germany. Confirm fitment against the manufacturer's guide by build date and trim before ordering. Buyers searching for a 2010-2013 Highlander 2WD front right strut upgrade, a monotube B6 strut for stock ride height, or a Highlander front strut replacement with spring compressor will find the key details here. Owners on user forums describe this kind of job as a driveway project lasting a few hours.
The manufacturer states that the B6 is designed to work with the original stock-height springs, so no spring change is required for the ride height to stay the same. Confirm before ordering whether your order includes a coil spring or upper mount.
The manufacturer describes the B6 line as a monotube gas-pressure design. Details vary across listings for this specific part number, so confirm the construction with the manufacturer before purchase.
Owners on user forums recommend replacing the sway bar end links and front ball joints while the strut is out, and inspecting the lower control arm bushings for tears. Some owners also report that aftermarket upper strut mounts and bearings vary in quality.
Owners on user forums describe front strut replacement on this generation as a moderate DIY job, typically a few hours per side with a floor jack, two jack stands, and a spring compressor. Mark the orientation of the old strut before removal, and line up the top spring mount with the upper bearing plate before final torquing, since the mount can sit off-clock. The strut mounting bolts and top nut are very tight, so a torque wrench is worth using. Many owners recommend replacing the top mounts and boots together, and a second person helps when seating the strut.
