The Borla 60699 is a high clearance Y-pipe for the Toyota Tacoma 3.5L V6, built from T-304 austenitic stainless steel. Its mandrel-bent tubing takes the exhaust off the stock location under the transfer case and routes it around the case, which raises ground clearance for off-road and rock crawling use. It steps from dual 2.25" inlets to a single 2.25" outlet and includes transfer case heat shields.
Compared with the factory Y-pipe, this unit is built for trail duty. Borla's cut-and-clamp design keeps the secondary catalytic converters, so the truck stays emissions-compliant, unlike cat-delete pipes that some buyers use for clearance. Stainless construction resists corrosion for long-term durability. Owners on user forums say the fit is good and the sound is slightly throatier, while others report no noticeable change in volume, so expect variation. Search terms this part targets include 3.5L V6 Tacoma high clearance Y-pipe, 2GR-FKS rock crawler exhaust, T-304 stainless Y-pipe, and Tacoma transfer case reroute.
The manufacturer lists fitment for 2016-2023 Tacoma 3.5L V6 crew and extended cab trucks, with 2WD and 4WD applications, so confirm your bed length and cab against the application chart. The pipe works with the factory exhaust or Borla's Cat-Back systems 140680 and 140680BC. Installation requires cutting the original exhaust, so this is a cut-and-clamp job rather than a plug-in swap. Plan on tightening the Accuseal clamps to the manufacturer's torque and checking clearances before final tightening.
Yes. The manufacturer states the cut-and-clamp installation retains the secondary catalytic converters, which keeps the truck emissions-compliant and street legal.
Yes. The manufacturer specifies that installation requires cutting the original equipment exhaust system, so plan for a cut-and-clamp install.
Owners on user forums report that the stock donut gasket between the Y-pipe and the cat-back did not fit the larger piping, so they sourced a replacement gasket. Check gasket fit before you start the install.
This is a cut-and-clamp installation, so expect a longer job than a bolt-on. Per the manufacturer's install sheet, the work involves removing the flange hardware and the Y-pipe hanger from its rubber isolator (a flathead screwdriver or prybar helps), unplugging the O2 sensor, and removing the driver-side exhaust section. Keep the original hardware and gasket for reassembly. The sheet calls for clamps over the expanded pipe ends, with clamps left loose until the pipes are positioned, then tightening the Accuseal clamps to 32-35 ft-lbs. Owners on user forums advise leaving all joints loose enough to twist the pipes into place so nothing rubs the crossmember or driveshaft before final tightening. Confirm your truck's clearances before you cut.
