The Baja Designs LP9 Pro 320003 is an 8-inch auxiliary light pod with a driving/combo pattern, so one clear-lens light covers near-field trail and distance without a separate spot unit. The manufacturer lists nine forward-projecting LEDs at 11,025 lumens, plus six Integrated Peripheral Technology (IPT) LEDs that bring the total to 12,547 lumens at 9 amps. The housing is hard anodized machined aluminum with a billet bezel and a hardcoated polycarbonate lens. The LP9 Pro suits anyone searching for a 320003 driving combo light pod, a universal LP9 auxiliary pod, or a high-output LED pod for off-road rigs.
Compared with a cheaper universal pod, the case for this light is serviceability. The manufacturer's uService design lets you swap the lens and optic instead of replacing the whole light when the cover gets scratched or you want a different pattern. Built-in overvoltage protection and an operating range of 12 to 36 volts give it more electrical tolerance than a basic 12-volt pod. Owners on user forums report mounting pairs directly to steel bumpers with the included hardware.
Because the LP9 Pro is universal, fitment depends on your mounting location and clearance rather than a model-specific bracket. The bracket uses quarter-inch-20 and 3/8-inch hardware, bolted through the bracket to the mounting surface. Wiring is the main job. The manufacturer's upfitter instructions call for a circuit test light or multimeter, pliers, crimps, and a 10mm or 1/2-inch socket. Never power the low-beam and high-beam pins at the same time, because that can damage the circuit board. Search terms: LP9 Pro 320003 wiring, LP9 high beam low beam switch, Baja LP9 bumper install.
The manufacturer specifies that the LP9 runs on 12 to 36 volts.
No. The manufacturer warns not to power pins 1 and 4 at the same time, because this can damage the circuit board. Baja Designs staff on user forums recommend running low beam and high beam on separate auxiliary switches.
Per the manufacturer, remove the six allen head bolts on the back of the light using a 4mm allen wrench, then carefully remove the front bezel and lens. Seat the o-ring in its groove, which is not directional, and torque the bezel to 7 ft-lb in a criss-cross pattern.
Mounting is a bolt-on job for most DIYers, while wiring takes the most time. Start by setting the bracket with the included hardware and aligning the light before tightening. Then route the wiring from a switched power source and a relay setup, following the manufacturer's harness instructions for power, ground, and beam wires. Test the high-beam wire with a multimeter or test light before connecting power. Owners on user forums mount the lights directly to steel bumpers and run their own 12-gauge wire with heat-shrink at every joint. Confirm mounting clearance, switch location, and beam aim before final tightening.
