The Bilstein B4 OE Replacement 22-268877 is a front driver-side twin-tube strut assembly for the 2009–2015 Honda Pilot. Bilstein positions the B4 line as an OE-correct replacement meant to keep the factory ride and handling, so it suits owners who want a like-for-like swap rather than a lowered or firmed-up setup. It is a non-adjustable strut housing with a stem upper mount and bracket lower mount, finished in black paint.
Compared with a bargain strut, the B4 is built to the manufacturer's OE standard, and its dimensions are published so you can verify the fit before ordering: 21.85-inch extended length, 13.87-inch collapsed length, and 14.57 lb. The manufacturer's cross-reference lists Honda 51606-SZA-A02 as the OE equivalent. The strut ships without a boot, so plan to reuse your old one or source a replacement.
Searchers looking for a 2009–2015 Pilot front strut, a Bilstein B4 twintube 22-268877, or a Honda 51606-SZA-A02 replacement will find this assembly. It is a practical option for a Pilot front-end refresh where the goal is factory-style damping and a predictable ride at a moderate price.
The manufacturer lists the application as the 2009–2015 Honda Pilot. Confirm your trim and drive configuration against your vehicle before ordering, since the manufacturer's application listing does not break these out.
No. The manufacturer specifies that the boot is not included, so you will need to reuse your existing boot or buy one separately.
The manufacturer's interchange listing shows Honda 51606-SZA-A02. Compare it with the number stamped on or listed for your original strut before installing.
Owners on user forums report it is a moderate job. One 2012 EX-L owner reported about four hours for front struts along with sway bar bushings and end links, and another owner reported about three hours for struts alone.
Owners on user forums describe front strut replacement on the Pilot as doable for a home mechanic with a floor jack, jack stands, a torque wrench, and a set of sockets and a breaker bar. Common hurdles include rusted or stuck fasteners, the awkward work of lining up the top studs while lifting the assembly, and the weight of the strut, so a helper is useful. A typical sequence described by owners involves removing the wheel, loosening the lower pinch bolt, then disconnecting the sway bar link, the ABS wire, and the top nuts. If you transfer the coil spring to the new strut, use a proper spring compressor, tighten it slowly and evenly, and be careful not to damage the ball joints. Confirm the exact procedure in the factory service manual, and get a wheel alignment once the job is complete.