The Camburg CAM-120028 is a pair of extended rear leaf spring shackles for the Ford F-150 and Raptor, built to replace the thin, stamped stock shackle. The stock unit uses a rubber bushing that flexes and binds as the suspension cycles. Camburg's version is a boxed, gusseted design CNC-cut and formed from 4130 chromoly, TIG welded, and powder coated in textured gray, with polyurethane bushings that pivot with less deflection. Owners on user forums describe Camburg's rear shackles as noticeably beefier than OEM, with thicker welds and heavier plating. For a truck that sees rough trails or towing, that sturdier construction and tighter articulation justify the price over a stock or budget replacement. The 1.5-inch extension gives the rear leaf springs more droop and lowers the rear about an inch. Search terms: CAM-120028 rear shackles, 1.5 inch lowered F-150 rear shackles, 4130 chromoly TIG leaf spring shackles, polyurethane bushing Raptor shackles.
Installation uses the factory hardware, so no special fabrication is needed. The shackles are designed for stock and Deaver leaf springs, and the extended length is the version to choose for a drop. Owners on user forums report that the driver side is the tighter of the two, and that supporting the axle or rear differential with a jack lets the bolts come out more easily. Some owners unbolt the bed to gain clearance. Drop the spare tire if it hangs under the truck, and be careful not to overstretch the brake lines while the axle is lowered. Plan on two to three hours for both sides if this is your first time, and use jack stands and a quality floor jack.
Yes. The extended version is designed to lower the rear about one inch. The stock-length version does not change ride height.
The shackles are designed for stock and Deaver leaf springs, and the manufacturer's stock-length version is not intended for Icon springs. Compatibility of the extended version with Icon springs was not confirmed, so check with the manufacturer first.
This is a bolt-on job using the factory hardware, rated as a moderate DIY project. Owners on user forums describe the passenger side as straightforward, often around 15 minutes per side once the leaf is supported, while the driver side is tighter and can require dropping the shock or loosening the bed. Common gotchas include clearance for the upper bolt, the brake lines, and the spare tire. Use a floor jack, jack stands, and a socket set, and lubricate the poly bushings before final torque.
