Hawk's HPS compound is listed as its street-focused tier, with an operating range of 100 to 700 F and an optimal range of 100 to 500 F. This rear set applies that formula to the 1998-2002 Camaro 5.7L/3.8L and Firebird 5.7L/3.8L. The manufacturer emphasizes a smooth, predictable pedal feel for spirited street driving, with consistent brake release characteristics, which makes it a practical step up for drivers who want better stopping than a stock replacement without going to a full race pad.
Choosing this pad over a budget alternative comes down to rotor care and dust. Less fade means better pedal feel and more consistent performance in a durable pad that produces less dust. The manufacturer also describes the compound as gentle on rotors and long-wearing. These results depend on the right rotors, so buyers should note that the pads are designed to work with iron or metal rotors, and Hawk compounds should not be paired with carbon ceramic discs.
For a DIY rear brake job, plan on a standard caliper service with the car safely supported on jack stands. Remove the caliper guide pin bolts while counter-holding each pin so it does not spin, and apply a thin layer of high-temp brake grease to the caliper slide pins. Since rear pads are typically replaced in sets that complete one axle, replacing both rear sides at once keeps braking balanced. Searches for 1998-2002 Camaro rear pads, Firebird HPS street pads, and iron-rotor compatible performance pads will lead to the same install considerations covered here.
No. The manufacturer states that Hawk compounds are not compatible with carbon ceramic rotors and that its pads are designed for iron or metal rotors.
The manufacturer markets HPS as a compound for street-legal vehicles and lists a 700 F maximum operating temperature. For sustained track sessions, check the manufacturer's compound lineup before choosing a pad.
Owners on user forums note that the pad with extra tabs on its ends faces the main caliper piston, and that the spring clip should sit in the caliper groove.
This is a moderate-difficulty job for a home mechanic with basic tools. Common materials include a floor jack and jack stands, a metric socket set, a torque wrench, silicone grease, a wire brush, brake parts cleaner, a bungee cord, a C-clamp, and blue threadlocker. Two common gotchas: use a wrench to hold the guide pin when loosening its bolt, and refill or check brake fluid before pushing the piston back, since the reservoir can overflow. Confirm torque specs in a service manual before reassembly.
