EBC Brakes builds this Redstuff rear set on an aramid fiber base blended with ceramic particles, and the manufacturer describes it as copper-free and free of lead. Sized for the 2001–2003 Acura CL 3.2 V6, it is positioned as a low-dust pad for fast road driving, with ECE R90 approval for most cars. Against stock rear pads, the manufacturer claims a 15% brake-effect gain from its higher-friction formula, which matters on spirited back-road runs or repeated hard stops.
The price over a basic economy pad is justified by longevity and rotor care rather than just stopping power. The manufacturer notes that this compound needs roughly 500 km to fully bed in, and its red Brake-In surface coating is meant to shorten that period. Owners on user forums report that factory rotors can be soft and that aggressive pads may groove them, so many owners pair Redstuff with upgraded rotors. Searches like "2001-2003 Acura CL 3.2 rear ceramic pads," "EBC DP3781/2C bed-in," and "low dust rear pads Acura CL" point to exactly this use case.
Owners on user forums report that stock rotors can be soft and that Redstuff may cut grooves into them over time, so many choose upgraded rotors at the same time. Others have run the pads on stock discs without reporting problems, so inspect your rotors before installing.
The manufacturer states the pad takes approximately 500 km to fully bed down. Its Brake-In coating helps the pad transfer material to the rotor faster, but avoid hard stops during the first few hundred kilometers.
The manufacturer markets Redstuff as a low-dust fast street pad for performance passenger cars. It is not presented as a dedicated track compound, so choose a race-oriented pad for sustained track sessions.
This is a manageable weekend job for a home mechanic. Owners on user forums describe the rear pad swap on 1999–2003 Acura platforms as a fairly standard procedure: remove the two caliper bolts (the ones with rubber boots, which you should avoid tearing), lift the caliper off the bracket, and replace the pads. You will need a 12 mm socket, a 17 mm wrench to hold the caliper slide nut, a C-clamp or piston tool, and brake parts grease. Lightly grease the slider pins and the back of the pads, note the pad orientation and clip positions before disassembly, and remove the master cylinder reservoir cap because the fluid level rises as the piston is pushed back. Bed in the new pads gently as described above.
