These Power Stop front calipers are remanufactured replacements for the 1994–1996 Chevrolet Impala, sold as a pair in a high-temperature red powder coat. The manufacturer says the calipers and brackets are remanufactured in its Chicago, Illinois facility and pressure tested before shipping. Each caliper is rebuilt with new boots, seals, bleeder screws, guide pins, and stainless pad hardware, with high-temperature silicone lubricant on the pins. This listing is for calipers only, so your original brackets stay on the car.
A fresh caliper assembly with new seals and boots gives a worn or leaking stock unit a clean restart, and the high-temp EPDM rubber is built for heat. The red finish resists rust and wipes clean, and it stands out behind open-spoke wheels. Owners on user forums say a caliper refresh restores stock function, but bigger stopping gains usually come from pairing the calipers with upgraded rotors, quality pads, and stainless braided lines. If your Impala is a 94–96 9C1 police-package car, check before ordering: owners on user forums note that 9C1 front calipers are wider and take thicker pads than standard Impala SS calipers, so match the pads and caliper to your package. Searches for "94-96 Impala front red calipers no brackets," "Impala SS brake caliper rebuild," and "1994-1996 Impala bolt-on front calipers" typically lead to this application.
No. This set is sold without brackets, so you reuse the original bracket. The manufacturer's install tips advise cleaning the original bracket with brake parts cleaner, removing rust with a brass wire brush, lubricating the guide pins with high-temp caliper grease, and installing new abutment clips where needed.
No. The manufacturer's feature list covers bleeder screws, pad attachment hardware, and pins, but not brake pads. Pads need to be purchased separately and matched to your Impala's brake package.
This is a bolt-on job for a confident home mechanic with a jack, jack stands, a socket set, a C-clamp or piston compressor, and brake fluid on hand. Remove the wheel, unbolt the caliper guide pin bolts, and support the caliper with a hanger or wire, never by the brake hose. Compress the piston slowly while watching the reservoir so it does not overflow. Clean the original bracket, lubricate the abutment contact points, and install new clips. Tighten the guide pins to your vehicle's torque specification, reconnect the line, and bleed the brakes per the factory service manual. Check whether your application calls for a new crush washer at the hose fitting, and confirm the fit and pad clearance before driving.
